← 1puni / back aboard

THE SEA HAS A SHORE SIDE / FIELD GUIDE № 02

Fjäderholmarna.
Permission to dawdle.

Tie up the day. There are boats to admire, kitchens to investigate and absolutely no prize for getting round first.

59°19′ N / 18°10′ E STOCKHOLM’S INNER ARCHIPELAGO

A painted wooden rowing boat, rope, coffee and a blank notebook: shore leave, imagined.
Room for a little unplanned shore leave.
Four wooded islands in Saltsjön, with waterfront cottages, jetties and a ferry crossing the channel.

Unfolding the chart…

© OpenStreetMap contributors · Lantmäteriet · EMODnet

01 / THE TABLE

Four islands, one lunch break.

Stora Fjäderholmen, Ängsholmen, Libertas and Rövarns holme: four names to get to know in Saltsjön. Start with the whole table, then zoom in until the places become possibilities.

Turn the islands around, follow the shore or head straight for a place that catches your eye. The field guide has the kitchens, studios and boats to look for ashore.

02 / ARRIVING BY BOAT

The commute is the point.

Fjäderholmslinjen and Strömma arrive at Stora Kajen on the north shore. Waxholmsbolaget uses Ångbåtsbryggan at the southeast tip. Check your operator’s quay and last boat home, then leave the crossing free for looking out of the window.

03 / SINCE 1381

Spirits, shells and a reopening.

First recorded in 1381, the islands later played a part in L.O. Smith’s nineteenth-century spirits war with Stockholm. The navy arrived in the 1920s; military use followed.

After restoration under Kungliga Djurgårdens förvaltning, they reopened to the public in 1985. A rather different kind of shore leave.

History from Kungliga slotten’s Fjäderholmarna site.

04 / THE BUSINESS DISTRICT

Five addresses for shore leave.

Stora Fjäderholmen has plenty of reasons to leave the galley alone: Fjäderholmarnas Krog, Rökeriet, Röda Villan, Systrarna Degens and Fjäderholmarnas Bryggeri. The Bryggeri’s island venue is a brewpub; production is in Bro. Find each venue, its own website and practical details in the field guide.

Opening times move with the season. Check the island’s own site before you plan lunch around it.

05 / AROUND THE ISLAND

Nine places, one small island.

  1. Ångbåtsbryggan, the steamboat jetty
  2. Grönborg
  3. Hantverksbyn, the crafts village
  4. Festplatsen
  5. Krogviken
  6. Torget
  7. Trädgården
  8. Stora Kajen
  9. Solklipporna, the sunny rocks

Pick a place and follow the island paths. The numbers here help you find the field notes; they are our own, separate from the official guide’s business and service numbers.

06 / ALLMOGEBÅTARNA

Boats that built the archipelago.

Visit Allmogebåtarna, the exhibition of traditional boats. Then look for the information boards “Stenbrott och konst” and “Skärgårdsvik” as you continue around the island.

07 / LIBERTUS

A light that counts to three.

Libertus, on the islet of Libertas, flashes three times every nine seconds: Fl(3) 9s. Watch for the rhythm at dusk: three flashes, then a pause.

1PUNI / THE SHORE-LEAVE FIELD GUIDE

Shore leave.
Properly considered.

Kitchens, craft studios, old boats and nine places to explore ashore. Pick a place to start; lunch can decide the rest.

THE ISLAND AT A GLANCE

Arrive
By passenger ferry or your own boat. Check the operator or guest-harbour office before setting off.
Go ashore
Explore Stora Fjäderholmen on foot. For step-free access, check with your ferry operator and the places you plan to visit.
Choose your season
Check each venue’s website for seasonal opening times before setting off.
Leave lightly
Respect closed areas and take sortable rubbish back to the mainland, as the island’s management asks.

Visitor guidance: Kungliga slotten. This is a shore guide, not a pilot book.

Harbour & ferry

Harbour & ferry

Gästbryggorna · Guest piers

The two guest piers sit on Stora Fjäderholmen’s northwest shore, between the fuel jetty and Stora Kajen. Contact the harbour office for a berth.

What
Two guest mooring piers
From the harbour
On the northwest shore, beside the guest-harbour office.

Harbour office · 08-716 39 10

Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. Declared geographic anchor: guest_piers; Guest-berth designation follows local guidance supplied 2026-09-30: the two northwestern mooring piers of Stora Fjäderholmen. Exact footprints are OSM ways 118316337 and 118316335, both tagged man_made=pier, floating=yes, mooring=yes in the receipted extract. The farther-west fuel jetty way/25166617 is mooring=no and is excluded. https://www.fjaderholmarna.se/ confirms Sjömacken & Gästhamnskontor (21), but does not identify individual guest piers. OSM mooring=yes supports mooring, not independently the guest designation. No berth availability or depth inferred. Guide label at the mean of the two footprint representative points; the highlights follow their actual mapped outlines..

Harbour & ferry

Sjömacken & gästhamnskontoret

The guest-harbour office and fuel station share the pier west of Stora Kajen. Contact the office about berthing.

What
Guest-harbour office & fuel
From the harbour
On the north-shore pier west of Stora Kajen.

Harbour office · 08-716 39 10

Opening times & details ↗

Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. Declared geographic anchor: harbour_office; Office and fuel together: official KDF 2026 guide p.2 entry 21; fuel point https://www.openstreetmap.org/node/10951900819 at 59.3292339 N, 18.1729078 E. Source: https://www.kungligaslotten.se/download/18.16d82aa19d24cb639bac92/1774540689906/Fjaderholmsguiden_KDF_2026.pdf..

Harbour & ferry

Stora Kajen · Fjäderholmslinjen & Strömma

Fjäderholmslinjen and Strömma use Stora Kajen on the north shore. Waxholmsbolaget uses Ångbåtsbryggan at the southeast tip. Check your operator’s timetable and last boat home.

What
North-shore passenger-ferry quay
From the harbour
On the north shore, beside the harbour.

Opening times & details ↗

Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. Stora Kajen, north shore: representative point of mapped quay https://www.openstreetmap.org/way/164859726. Official KDF 2026 south-up map p.2 places boatlines 19 Strömma and 20 Fjäderholmslinjen here: https://www.kungligaslotten.se/download/18.16d82aa19d24cb639bac92/1774540689906/Fjaderholmsguiden_KDF_2026.pdf.; resolved from OSM way/164859726; final display offset from declared coordinate: 13.0 m.

Harbour & ferry

Ångbåtsbryggan · Waxholmsbolaget

Waxholmsbolaget lands at Ångbåtsbryggan on the southeast tip. For Fjäderholmslinjen or Strömma, use Stora Kajen on the north shore.

What
Southeast passenger-ferry quay
From the harbour
At the southeast tip of Stora Fjäderholmen.
Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. Waxholmsbolaget at Ångbåtsbryggan, southeast quay. SL Transport API site 952 (59.327535 N, 18.179603 E), recorded in the verified 2026-09-29 research handoff and cross-checked against OSM node/14047315491, NeTEx SE:001:Quay:9022001000952001; official KDF 2026 guide p.2 boatline 1. Sources: https://www.openstreetmap.org/node/14047315491; https://www.kungligaslotten.se/download/18.16d82aa19d24cb639bac92/1774540689906/Fjaderholmsguiden_KDF_2026.pdf. Exact declared quay coordinate retained.; final display offset from declared coordinate: 0.0 m.

Eat & drink

Eat & drink

Fjäderholmarnas Krog

A proper island restaurant, with Hamnbaren alongside the main Krog. For the part of shore leave that involves sitting down and letting someone else handle lunch.

What
Restaurant & harbour bar
From the harbour
On Stora Fjäderholmen; continue on foot from the guest harbour.

Opening times & details ↗

Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. OSM feature way/161917128.

Eat & drink

Rökeriet

The smokehouse restaurant makes a persuasive case for leaving the galley alone. Menus, bookings and seasonal plans belong with the kitchen.

What
Restaurant
From the harbour
On Stora Fjäderholmen; continue on foot from the guest harbour.

Opening times & details ↗

Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. OSM feature node/1764542855.

Eat & drink

Röda Villan

Food, fika and a veranda; boule if the crew still needs a competitive outlet. Check with Röda Villan for courts and equipment.

What
Restaurant, café & boule
From the harbour
On Stora Fjäderholmen; continue on foot from the guest harbour.

Opening times & details ↗

Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. OSM feature node/1764542854.

See & do

PLACE / 03

Hantverksbyn

Wood, textiles, ceramics, glass, metal and chocolate: the island’s craft studios give you plenty to browse. Book a workshop through Craft Island to try your hand.

What
Craft studios & workshops
From the harbour
On Stora Fjäderholmen; continue on foot from the guest harbour.

Opening times & details ↗

Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. Official KDF 2026 guide p.2, south-up map; named area at pixel [379, 352] in 1132×1600 page raster, four-anchor affine registration to EPSG:3006. Control RMS 13.13 m, max 20.36 m; independent checks up to 53 m, indicative area only (about 60 m uncertainty). Source: https://www.kungligaslotten.se/download/18.16d82aa19d24cb639bac92/1774540689906/Fjaderholmsguiden_KDF_2026.pdf; reproducible anchors and matrix: map-registration.json.; final display offset from declared coordinate: 0.0 m.

See & do

Libertus

Look towards Libertas for the Libertus light. Its rhythm is three flashes every nine seconds.

What
Sector light · three flashes every nine seconds
From the harbour
On the separate islet of Libertas, across the water from Stora Fjäderholmen.
Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. OSM seamark position: Libertus.

Around the island

PLACE / 01

Ångbåtsbryggan

Ångbåtsbryggan is the southeast landing for Waxholmsbolaget. Start exploring from here if this is where your boat arrives.

What
Waxholmsbolaget quay
From the harbour
On the southeast tip; follow the island paths from the north harbour.
Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. Waxholmsbolaget at Ångbåtsbryggan, southeast quay. SL Transport API site 952 (59.327535 N, 18.179603 E), recorded in the verified 2026-09-29 research handoff and cross-checked against OSM node/14047315491, NeTEx SE:001:Quay:9022001000952001; official KDF 2026 guide p.2 boatline 1. Sources: https://www.openstreetmap.org/node/14047315491; https://www.kungligaslotten.se/download/18.16d82aa19d24cb639bac92/1774540689906/Fjaderholmsguiden_KDF_2026.pdf. Exact declared quay coordinate retained.; final display offset from declared coordinate: 0.0 m.

PLACE / 02

Grönborg

Grönborg is the wooded southern part of the island above Ångbåtsbryggan.

What
Wooded area
From the harbour
In the southern part of Stora Fjäderholmen.
Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. Official KDF 2026 guide p.2, south-up map; named area at pixel [250, 175] in 1132×1600 page raster, four-anchor affine registration to EPSG:3006. Control RMS 13.13 m, max 20.36 m; independent checks up to 53 m, indicative area only (about 60 m uncertainty). Source: https://www.kungligaslotten.se/download/18.16d82aa19d24cb639bac92/1774540689906/Fjaderholmsguiden_KDF_2026.pdf; reproducible anchors and matrix: map-registration.json.; final display offset from declared coordinate: 0.0 m.

PLACE / 04

Festplatsen

Festplatsen lies inland from Krogviken, beside the craft area.

What
Festival grounds
From the harbour
Near the craft studios and Krogviken.
Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. Official KDF 2026 guide p.2, south-up map; named area at pixel [214, 360] in 1132×1600 page raster, four-anchor affine registration to EPSG:3006. Control RMS 13.13 m, max 20.36 m; independent checks up to 53 m, indicative area only (about 60 m uncertainty). Source: https://www.kungligaslotten.se/download/18.16d82aa19d24cb639bac92/1774540689906/Fjaderholmsguiden_KDF_2026.pdf; reproducible anchors and matrix: map-registration.json.; final display offset from declared coordinate: 0.0 m.

PLACE / 05

Krogviken

Pause by Krogviken for a look across the bay before continuing around the island.

What
Bay · view from shore
From the harbour
On Stora Fjäderholmen; continue on foot from the guest harbour.
Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. Krogviken bay point from https://www.openstreetmap.org/node/1764542853; bay identity cross-checked on the south-up official KDF 2026 map p.2: https://www.kungligaslotten.se/download/18.16d82aa19d24cb639bac92/1774540689906/Fjaderholmsguiden_KDF_2026.pdf.; resolved from OSM node/1764542853; final display offset from declared coordinate: 0.0 m.

PLACE / 06

Torget

Pause at Torget as you make your way between Krogviken and the north harbour.

What
Square
From the harbour
Just inland from the north harbour, near Systrarna Degens stuga.
Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. Official KDF 2026 guide p.2, south-up map; named area at pixel [214, 530] in 1132×1600 page raster, four-anchor affine registration to EPSG:3006. Control RMS 13.13 m, max 20.36 m; independent checks up to 53 m, indicative area only (about 60 m uncertainty). Source: https://www.kungligaslotten.se/download/18.16d82aa19d24cb639bac92/1774540689906/Fjaderholmsguiden_KDF_2026.pdf; reproducible anchors and matrix: map-registration.json.; final display offset from declared coordinate: 0.0 m.

PLACE / 07

Trädgården

Trädgården is the garden area shown inland from Röda Villan, with the boule courts nearby.

What
Garden area
From the harbour
Inland from Röda Villan on the western side of the island.
Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. Official KDF 2026 guide p.2, south-up map; named area at pixel [449, 487] in 1132×1600 page raster, four-anchor affine registration to EPSG:3006. Control RMS 13.13 m, max 20.36 m; independent checks up to 53 m, indicative area only (about 60 m uncertainty). Source: https://www.kungligaslotten.se/download/18.16d82aa19d24cb639bac92/1774540689906/Fjaderholmsguiden_KDF_2026.pdf; reproducible anchors and matrix: map-registration.json.; final display offset from declared coordinate: 0.0 m.

PLACE / 08

Stora Kajen

Stora Kajen is the north-shore landing for Fjäderholmslinjen and Strömma. Check your operator before choosing your quay.

What
Fjäderholmslinjen & Strömma quay
From the harbour
On the north shore, beside the harbour.
Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. Stora Kajen, north shore: representative point of mapped quay https://www.openstreetmap.org/way/164859726. Official KDF 2026 south-up map p.2 places boatlines 19 Strömma and 20 Fjäderholmslinjen here: https://www.kungligaslotten.se/download/18.16d82aa19d24cb639bac92/1774540689906/Fjaderholmsguiden_KDF_2026.pdf.; resolved from OSM way/164859726; final display offset from declared coordinate: 13.0 m.

PLACE / 09

Solklipporna

Head to Solklipporna on the southwest shore for sun-warmed rock and a view across Saltsjön.

What
Rocky shore & viewpoint
From the harbour
On the southwest shore; follow the island paths from the harbour.
Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. Solklipporna named locality on southwest shore from https://www.openstreetmap.org/node/8898660240, confirmed visually in official KDF 2026 south-up map p.2: https://www.kungligaslotten.se/download/18.16d82aa19d24cb639bac92/1774540689906/Fjaderholmsguiden_KDF_2026.pdf.; resolved from OSM node/8898660240; final display offset from declared coordinate: 0.0 m.

History

History

Stenbrott och konst

Look for the information board “Stenbrott och konst” — “Quarry and art” — during your walk.

What
Information board
From the harbour
On Stora Fjäderholmen; continue on foot from the guest harbour.
Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. OSM feature node/11047951306.

History

Skärgårdsvik

“Skärgårdsvik” means “Archipelago bay”. Look for the information board with that name as you explore.

What
Information board
From the harbour
On Stora Fjäderholmen; continue on foot from the guest harbour.
Sources

Checked 2026-09-30. OSM feature node/11047951316.

WHERE THIS CAME FROM

Open data, with receipts.

The coastline and building footprints follow OpenStreetMap. Elevation and seabed data give the islands their shape. Sources and downloadable data are below.

Take the chart home: scene.json (ODbL 1.0) · terrain.bin (Int16 decimetres, north first) · LINEAGE.json (every input’s URL, hash and licence)

NOT FOR NAVIGATION. Depths near shore are modelled. The light sectors are shortened. The animated ferry route is fictional.